Sagrantino di Montefalco

My family hails from southern Italy, where food and wine are so engrained in daily life, even more than the average Italian region. During my many visits to Italy, I have searched for a similar culture to that of my home region of Basilicata. I think I may have found it in Umbria. The only landlocked region of Italy, Umbria has quickly become one of my favorites in Italy for many reasons. The perfect melding of agriculture, viticulture and “olivicultura” have impassioned me forever to this small and glorious land found in “centro d’Italia”.

Beyond the exquisite truffles, salume, carni and olive oil found in this area, there also exists a very cult red grape that is quite distinctive. It is called Sagrantino, and is primarily grown in the village of Montefalco and several surrounding towns, somewhere between Spoleto and Assisi. There are a dozen or so producers that work this grape, and there are less than 300 acres planted in the whole region.

It is an extremely tannic grape, one of the most tannic found anywhere, which presents a fine challenge. The winemakers must coax subtle notes of licorice, nutmeg, and plum out of the wafting, booming character that Sagrantino imparts to its juice.

The gem of this varietal is the aptly named, Sagrantino di Montefalco, a DOCG wine that must be made from 100 percent Sagrantino. There is also a more subtle, tamer version called Rosso di Montefalco (DOC). A blend of roughly 65-70 percent Sangiovese and about 10-15 percent Sagrantino, and possibly some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Colorino… this wine is very drinkable, but does not nearly possess the stout character of its big brother. A final delectable wine is made from the Sagrantino grape, the Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito (DOCG), made from grapes that have been partially dried. Very similar to a port, with huge dried fruit character, but without the fortification (most are below 16 percent), this concentrated juice is quite a treat.

2000 MILZIADE ANTANO, SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO

The seductive deep ruby color of this wine belies the massive nose, on which you will find a hearty plum component, some black pepper, nutmeg, and the faintest hint of anise.

Once this touches your palate the perception is instantly transformed. In a typical Barolo style, it comes at you full force, so decanting is definitely recommended. It is hugely tannic; completely enveloping my palate with acid; very hot, but cools with about an hour of decanting. Then you get to enjoy the anise, mint and finally some black cherry to complement the original plum notes. If you are a fan of the Super Tuscan style, you will be able to uncover a bit of cocoa on the finish. This wine has been well aged, though, so I suspect a younger variant may not be so complex due to the overwhelming nature of its acidity.

Overall, an exquisite representation of this rare varietal; aged and decanted perfectly, to bring out the best of its characteristics.