Primitivo and Zinfandel... reluctant brothers.

Not long after the beginning of this new millennium, DNA testing proved that Zinfandel, considered to be "the American Original grape," in fact originated in Europe. UC Davis professor Carole Meredith found an exact genetic match of Zinfandel in Croatia, of all places, where the grape is in fact called Crljenak kastelanski. However, there is more to this investigative story. Another grape, from the Puglia (Apulia) region in southern Italy, claims to also have the same origins and genetic makeup of Zinfandel.

The earliest knowledge of this varietal places its origins in Greece, like so many ancient Italian varieties. It is not known exactly how or when this plant was transported into Italy, but the history of this grape in Italy dates back many centuries. In the 17th century, it is known that the Benedictine monks named the varietal "Primitivo" because of its precociousness (early maturity of the grape) in that area.

One is Italian. The other is decidedly Californian. One has a history that can be traced back thousands of years, the other less than 200. There is a DNA test says that they are one in the same. So what’s the true story? The answer varies as much as the wines themselves. One thing is certain, though, Primitivo and Zinfandel can both produce a vast array of wines and some are actually quite notable and compelling.

First things first. Are they the same grape? It depends upon whom you ask. Both grapes descend from that rare Croatian varietal Crljenak. The Zinfandel is thought to be an exact replica of this grape, the Primitivo more of a clone but a very close copy. But are they the same? Which was the true progenitor? When planted side by side, Zin and Primitivo produce grapes of differing sizes, color and bunch density. The wines that they produce are so similar, however, that the U.S. ATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms) is considering a proposal to allow Italian Primitivo to be labeled as Zinfandel, much to the dismay of California Zinfandel vintners, who feel the huge overrun of Primitivo from Puglia will dilute the distinct style of wine they are making with these grapes.

Zinfandel has been the backbone of U.S. wine production for well over 100 years, from its prominent role on the table of 19th century immigrants to the modern bastardized version, White Zinfandel, and the excellent, spicy red Zinfandels made today. Strangely enough, current Zinfandel growers are operating in the dark when they buy new vines. It’s not really known how many clones there are, let alone which conditions each prefers. DNA testing on plants is not refined enough to distinguish between such closely related clones, which is why they must be identified through meticulous vineyard observation.

Primitivo thrives today in its original home of Apulia. This small region is a very prolific producer of these wines. In fact the heel of Italy’s boot produces more wine than the entire continent of Australia. Unfortunately, the vines historically have been coaxed to their highest yields, most of which end up being either shipped north for blending with other wines or re-fermented for industrial alcohol. Things are changing quickly in this tiny zone, fortunately.

New world techniques, lower yields and careful winery management have brought new examples of Apulian wines to the forefront of southern Italy. Instead of loose and flat wines, the newest examples are concentrated and hearty versions that develop well under the hot Italian sun. Primitivos tend to be juicy, well structured, heavily colored and rich, and high in alcohol. Lighter versions can be floral and fruity, but these are becoming increasingly rare. Aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries, violets and pepper are common. Primitivos can be great value wines, and even reserve bottles are rarely more than $20. The best examples come from the coastal region of Manduria, though many forward-thinking producers are experimenting in the outlying regions as well.

2007 A Mano Primitivo (Puglia) $15

Nose: Earthy aromas with blueberries, acai berry and fennel.

Palate: Winter spices and cedar with warm tannins and a very smooth structure. Quite easy to drink and carries some interesting complexity toward the finish

Finish: Quick and tannic. Lingering berry and licorice notes, quite pleasant.

Conclusion: A Mano Primitivo is an Italian version of a Zinfandel wine. The contrast between this and American Zinfandels could not be more striking. The warm earth notes and soft tannins are decidedly different than a California Zin's typical fruit and hot black pepper bold character. While there are definite similarities, this Italian wine is milder and juicier with more earth notes than is typical for other Zins.

A great value and a solid wine for the price; can be found for closer to $12 on sale.

Mike Mollica is an independent food & wine journalist for the "Italian American Community News", author and publisher of the blog "Mike's Mostly Food and Wine Blog", and is a blog contributor to VinVillage.com.

Posted January 11th, 2010

Malvasia is a name for a group of wine grape varieties that has been grown historically in the Mediterranean region and the island of Madeira, but today is cultivated in many winemaking regions of the world. The Malvasia grape is of Greek origin, but there is some controversy over exactly where it originated and what grape varieties were its ancestors. This important family, named Malvasia in Italian, Malvoisie in French, Malmsey in English and Malvasier in German, was produced in Greece and the island of Crete in the 14th to 16th centuries. This early Malmsey wine was carried to Italy, France, and northern Europe by the Venetians and other Italian merchants. In Greece, there is a variety known as Monemvasia. The current Monemvasia grape was long thought to be the common ancestor to the western European Malvasia representations. However, recent DNA analysis does not support a close link between Monemvasia and any modern Malvasia varieties.

While most varieties of Malvasia produce white wine, Malvasia Nera is a red variant that is used primarily as a blending grape in Italy, being valued for the dark color and aromatic qualities it can add to a wine. The Piemonte region is one important locale that produces a varietal example of Malvasia Nera with two DOC zones covering only around 250 acres (100 hectares), however, it is planted certainly in many other wine growing districts. In the southern regions of Puglia, Brindisi and Lecce, it is blended with Negroamaro, while in the 1970s & 1980s, it was a frequent blending partner of Sangiovese in the Toscana region, especially to make Chianti. However, from the 2005 vintage onward, Malvasia (along with Trebbiano), have been officially excluded as compulsory blending partners in DOCG designated Chianti wine. Throughout the Toscana region, Sangiovese is now often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc, whether for Chianti (where Cabernet Sauvignon must not exceed 15%) or Vino da Tavola (table wine). This trend is most certainly attributed to the huge success of the IGT Super Tuscans for the past quarter century, which are Italian “Bordeaux style” blends that have taken the world by storm since the mid ‘70’s. Other regions growing Malvasia Nera include the Alto Adige, Sardegna, Basilicata and Calabria. Malvasia Nera wines are often noted to have rich chocolate notes with dark stone fruit and lingering floral aromas and have rosé to delicately hued red colors.

The Malvasia family is quite broad, thus generalizations about Malvasia wine are difficult to come by. The majority of Malvasia wines are derived from Malvasia Bianca which is the white grape characterized by its straw color, clarity and a faint greenish hue. These wines are very aromatic and floral, with distinctive aromas and the presence of some residual sugar. I find them very similar to a Semillon, or complex Sauvignon Blanc. The very young Malvasia Bianca wines are described as full bodied but finishing with a soft texture in the mouth. Common aroma notes associated with Malvasia Bianca include peaches, apricots, golden raspberries and Rainier cherries. The fortified Malvasia wines, such as Madeira, are noted for their intense smoky notes and sharp acidity. As Malvasia ages, the wines tend to take on more nutty aromas and flavors though many of these wines have a short life span of only a few years after vinification.

Since the Malvasia family of wines are best utilized as “blending partners” to other varietals, it is only fitting that I talk about important wines that are made using this family of grapes for enhancement.

In a locale somewhere between Firenze and Pisa (in San Miniato), there exists a family winery steeped in tradition, passion, and true commitment to the winemaking trade. For the past 50 years, three generations of the Beconcini family have carefully tended the Pietro Beconcini Agricola vineyards, and crafted some very special wines from some unique grape varieties, including the aforementioned Malvasias. I recently hosted a proper tasting of some great Beconcini wines, generously provided by the Beconcini Agricola themselves… and I must say, it was a treat to sample the vast array of juice being produced in that wine house today. The six Beconcini wines we sampled were:

2007 Chianti Toscana DOCG (Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo, and Malvasia Nera)

2004 Maurleo Toscana IGT (Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera)

2003 Reciso Toscana IGT (100% Sangiovese)

2007 IXE Toscana IGT (Tempranillo- origined Italian vines)

2005 Vigna Alle Nicchie Toscana IGT (Tempranillo- origined Italian vines)

1999 Caratello Vin Santo del Chianti DOC (Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano Toscano, San Colombano) – a dessert wine

The absolute surprise here is that the Beconcini family discovered some very ancient vines on their property and have taken careful steps to genetically identify their origin. The result was some great plantings of grapes derived from the Spanish Tempranillo grape variety. Not only is this winery growing these grapes in Italy, but they are vinifying these grapes into some very competitive Tempranillo wines that rival some of the better Spanish examples. They creatively use a mix of French and American barriques, and seem to have honed the handling of the Tempranillo varietal from their property. Personally, from the list above, I was a fan of the DOCG Chianti, a classic blending of the old-style recipe from ages past. All the wines have a very polished and distinctly old-world personality, to be sure. A name to be reckoned with, you would be well served to keep an eye out for Beconcini wines during your next Italian wine hunt, you will not be disappointed with their creativity and attention to detail.

Mike Mollica is an independent food & wine journalist for the "Italian American Community News", author and publisher of the blog "Mike's Mostly Food and Wine Blog", and is a blog contributor to VinVillage.com.

2009 Abruzzo Earthquake

by Mike Mollica (10 Nov 09)

Earthquakes, or “terremoti” in Italy are nothing novel. They happen frequently, and sometimes violently, but they just aren’t all that often deadly. This is why when Italian laboratory technician Giampaolo Giuliani predicted on March 30th, 2009 that a major earthquake was imminent a smallish comune (town) in the province of L’Aquila (pop. 80k), he was ostracized, criticized and his science debunked. However, seven short days later, as the ground began to tremble, and the prophecy was realized, Italy was on the cusp of receiving its most deadly earthquake in almost 30 years.

Italy is a very seismically active country, dotted with volcanoes and of course, its glorious Appenine mountain range, which spans the entire length of the boot. Those impressive mountains were the creation of what is thought to be a shifting subduction zone in which the African Plate is descending beneath the Eurasian Plate, wedging those tall peaks up over millions of years. Italy also has no less than 10 active volcanoes (most of them south of Rome), which is also a tell-tale sign of tectonic activity in a region.

The disaster occurred in the central Italian region of Abruzzo, with its western border lying less than 50 miles due east of Rome. Abruzzo borders the region of Marche to the north, Lazio to the west, Molise to the south-east, and the Adriatic Sea to the east. The earthquake’s epicenter was in the province of L’Aquila, and measured 6.3 on the moment magnitude scale. The final death toll is reported to be 308, 22 of them children. There were 1,500 injured and almost 70,000 were left without home or shelter. Thankfully, the Italian government sprang quickly to action, and in the short term, set up temporary shelter tents to house the homeless.

More than six months later, residents are slowly being moved out of the tent villages and into new high-tech apartment homes. One positive initiative to emerge from the rubble is the creation of the largest photovoltaic village in Europe with some 35,000 square meters of photovoltaic panels being placed on the roofs of the earthquake proof apartment blocks. Thermal isolation plaster boards provide good insulation, far better than most of the homes that were owned by these stranded Italians. The homes are seismically fitted, much like the construction techniques found in California’s earthquake zones. Traditional stone blocks and mortar have given way to lumber and drywall materials, and these new homes are engineered to withstand strong quakes. Rainwater is collected and held for use in landscape irrigation. Every week Italian authorities hand over 300 new apartments. By January 2010, more than 16,000 people will be calling these low-energy structures home, however many are concerned that the over 700 million euro allocated to this relief has left the fund wallet dry to rebuild the historical center of L’Aquila, which was hardest hit in the quake. The buildings that received the most damage were schools, hospitals and churches… many of which are unlikely to be restored to their previous splendor. Aside from the displaced city-dwellers of L'Aquila, the surrounding farming communities have also been suffering the consequences of the earthquake. The disaster occurred just before Easter, when sheep farmers would have sold an enormous amount of lamb, milk and cheese. They now deal with a huge surplus of inventory, including the cost of rearing the many animals that were not used last year, and freezing of all the milk that would have been used for cheese.

With roughly seven months passed since the quake, the consensus is that the situation is deteriorating rather than improving, with aftershocks occurring almost daily. This has taken a psychological toll on those who have stayed in the province, and has kept many of the deserters from coming back. Rumors abound that the mafia and its corrupting ways are hindering some of the progress. There are 40,000 people are still in tent cities and hosted eco-apartments, and rebuilding of the historic part of the city is slow going. Tourism has obviously fallen off a cliff, and the area just seems to be in a “stalled” state, in bad need of a jump start. This would require those who have left the region to move back… and for a strategic rebuilding plan to occur, one that would lay out a blueprint for a functional rebuilding of these peoples’ culture and way of life. It is not only homes that need to be repaired, but retail stores, gas stations, bakeries, meat markets and restaurants. This will bring back not only the residents who have abandoned the tattered province of L’Aquila, but also the tourist dollars that would be so desperately needed to support a reconstruction initiative in Abruzzo.

Pinot Grigio vs Pinot Gris



I am occasionally asked by my wine enthusiast friends, what my take is on the difference between Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio wines. Although subtle, there is a distinction in the different wines made from this grape.

Pinot Grigio is of course the Italian name for the equivalent Pinot Gris grape. It is also known as Pinot Beurot in Burgundy, Tokay d'Alsace in Alsace and Rulander in Germany. It gets its “grey” labeling because the grape clusters on the vine range in color from blue to pinkish grey. The same vine can contain clusters of different colors, actually, which is rather unique in itself. In a sort of reverse fashion, sweetness levels of this grape variety will tend to dissipate as the grapes ripen, instead of concentrate; evidenced in the typically dry and crisp characteristics of these wines. This species is well accepted to be a natural mutation of Pinot Noir, the unstable and finicky grape which also mutates to produce a Pinot Blanc/Bianco variety.

The main area for production of Pinot Grigio/Gris is the Fruili region of Italy. There are also sizeable vineyards in Alsace, France and in the U.S. (Oregon and California.) The Italian variety from Fruili has probably the most recognizable taste for the grape varietal, perhaps due to the attention given to the growing and long established vinifying processes. The typical flavor of the Pinot Grigio wine is delicate, fragrant and very frequently has a slight lemon note. The body of the wine is mostly light, spritzy and acidic, but some wine houses have experimented and pulled off some nice full bodied wines out of this grape in Italy. More subtly, the Italian wines will exhibit flavors of pears, melons and tropical fruits, much like a Sauvignon Blanc. By far the most famous Italian Pinot Grigio to make a name outside of Italy is from Santa Margherita Winery. A premium example of this varietal, it retails for about $25, and is constantly rated in the low to mid 90’s by almost all wine reviewers. It is a sublime white, with an intense nose, very dry palate and a pleasing golden apple finish. Most importantly, it is highly consistent from vintage to vintage... very admirable.

In Oregon, Pinot Gris was first planted in 1966, and experienced a very rapid rise to popularity. By the mid 1990’s, almost every major wine producer in Oregon was making a Pinot Gris. The style of the Oregon wine, like its French and German counterparts, is much more robust, floral and exotic when compared to the crisp and understated types made in Italy. They can be more velvety on the tongue, and certainly offer more layering of flavors, from lychee fruit, cantaloupe, grassy herbs and honeysuckle on the nose and palate… down to nutmeg, allspice and coriander heading toward a mineraly finish. The Oregon wines seem to be getting even better as new vintages are released. I credit the adventurous and trailblazing approach to winemaking in Oregon for the rapidity of this varietal’s rise to stardom in that state.


“A to Z” 2007 Oregon Pinot Gris (Oregon) ($14)

I was able to uncover this solid Oregon Pinot Gris and a very reasonable price point. This wine, at (13% alc.) was very clear, light straw color in the glass, wafting notes of pineapple, melon and honeysuckle on the nose. Those same fruits with a hint of honey predominated, followed by that nice bright and crisp acidity common to all of these wines.

This wine pairs well with a great variety of foods. I matched it with some roasted Cornish Game Hens, fingerling potatoes, and sautéed rapini . It held up nicely and complimented this meal quite well. It is demure enough to be enjoyed on its own as well. I'm sold on this Oregon Pinot Gris and tend to keep a few bottles on hand in my cellar.

The Veneto region of Italy stretches from the sands and boardwalks of Lago Garda, to the hills that envelope Verona, and up to the alpines of the Valdobbiadene. This region has always produced a notable collection of red and white wine varietals that were considered solid and dependable, if not a bit pedestrian. This has all changed over the past decade, however. With the ultimate goal of entering emerging markets, especially in the New World, many wineries in this region have been investing in the winemaking process from top to bottom. Vineyard techniques, equipment, bottling and even marketing have been revamped. This is the challenge for Old World wineries as they attempt to enter new markets. Keeping the character and tradition intact that has endured for centuries in their regions, while at the same time, producing a product that is more palatable to a market that is seeking tastes unlike the well recognized styles produced in the Old World.

The gem of the Veneto region is, of course, Amarone della Valpolicella, a long time favorite Italian varietal for me. Constructed primarily from the Corvina Veronese grape, with smaller quantities of Rondinella and Molinara, the grapes used for this wine must be very ripe for the wine to achieve Amarone's trademark intensity, structure and high alcohol content. Unlike regions further south, Veneto is not typically warm enough to ripen and concentrate the juice of the grape while still on the vine, so the lots that have been earmarked for use in Amarone go through a process called “recioto.” The fruit is allowed to ripen longer on the vine after normal harvest, and are always hand- picked and set carefully to dry for up to four months on straw mats. This drying, or recioto, concentrates the sugar, tannin and goodness of the grape by evaporating the moisture, converting the grapes into semi-raisins. Roughly three kilos of fresh grapes are necessary to obtain one liter of must after processing, which clearly is a fraction of the yield that the same weight of grapes would produce under normal winemaking circumstances. For this reason, Amarones tend to be produced in limited quantities, and are quite expensive.



FABIANO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, I FONDATORI (2001)

The Fabiano family have been in the wine-making industry in the Veneto region since 1912. They have had several locales since that early start, and currently reside in well modernized, large facility in an area uniquely suited for wine growing, half way between the city of Verona and Lago Garda. It is run by the third generation of Fabiano sons.

This 2001 limited production Amarone is created from a very particular selection of grapes in the “classic” area of Valpolicella, and blended at a ratio of 60% Corvina, 35% Rondinella, 5% Molinara. Although high alcohol content is a common thread among all Amarones, this wine has one of the highest, at 15.5%.

Nose: The deep pomegranate and plum colors of this wine guide you seductively into its extremely thick, complex nose with layered licorice, leather, all-spice and black fruit.

Palate: An incredibly concentrated, extracted, but pleasing complexity emerges without delay. Layers upon layers of dark chocolate, coffee, some white pepper and currant, bound together with a soothing fig property, finally ending with a very zingy hit of alcohol on the finish. Opulent and classy, with a bit of playfulness due that high alcohol. Decanted for one hour (although two hours is commonly recommended for this varietal.)

RATING: A- ($50-$60 USD, retail)

Italian Fountains

From the first time I spied La Fontana di Trevi in Roma as a child, I was impassioned by the use of fountains in Italia by the Romans and the Etruscans before them. Splashing around on a hot August day in the waters below giant mer-men gods and their untamed glorious equine beasts, this young ragazzo certainly felt humbled by the sheer magnitude of the whole scene. Water was always a treasured resource in the Roman Empire, as attested by the thousands of kilometers of aqueduct that snaked their way throughout central Italy. Mastery over supply of water translated to security and power. That reverence for this most basic, essential fluid filtered down through the centuries to modern Italian culture. As a child, in my family’s hometown of Rionero in Vulture, in the province of Potenza (Basilicata), I recall with vivid detail, the daily walk down to “La Fontana dei Morti”, which was part drinking fountain, and part “lavatoio” where many women of the village would go to wash their clothing and linens, others half-bathing, in a great communal cleansing. I also marveled at the drinking spigots scattered all around the paese, out of which percolated the most cold, crisp and sweet water you’ve ever tasted (my favorite was the tree shaped fontana in “La Villa” of Rionero, the great walking garden). Where this perfectly chilled and tasty acqua came from, and where it went after it sloshed down a granite drain, I always wondered. It was so dependable, though, the water that flowed in an unending stream from those brass spigots, and there was comfort in knowing it would always be there, waiting for me to come partake, or to simply refresh my face after a stroll through the piazza. Clearly, fountains are a cornerstone in Italian culture. There are some that stand freely, as round, or perhaps diamond shaped vessels… decorated with wonderful fleur de lis. Others hang on or are built into ancient stone walls, water streaming out of some whimsical or mythical creature’s mouth. Still others incorporate magnificent Roman gods and heroes, sculpted from a single marble block, and built to stand the test of time. Another variation on the fountain, the holy water font, is typically a receptacle made of ceramic, glass or steel that holds blessed water and is sometimes adorned with a plaster fresco of La Madonna, Gesù Cristo, or some beloved patron saint of bread, olives and grapes. A virtually unchanged symbol of ancient times, “la Fontana”, in all its ornate majesty or quaint simplicity, remains a centerpiece today in the homes and gardens of many Italian families. Perhaps this is a response to our most visceral need to surround ourselves with this eau de vie, because where there is water, there is life.

Sagrantino di Montefalco

My family hails from southern Italy, where food and wine are so engrained in daily life, even more than the average Italian region. During my many visits to Italy, I have searched for a similar culture to that of my home region of Basilicata. I think I may have found it in Umbria. The only landlocked region of Italy, Umbria has quickly become one of my favorites in Italy for many reasons. The perfect melding of agriculture, viticulture and “olivicultura” have impassioned me forever to this small and glorious land found in “centro d’Italia”.

Beyond the exquisite truffles, salume, carni and olive oil found in this area, there also exists a very cult red grape that is quite distinctive. It is called Sagrantino, and is primarily grown in the village of Montefalco and several surrounding towns, somewhere between Spoleto and Assisi. There are a dozen or so producers that work this grape, and there are less than 300 acres planted in the whole region.

It is an extremely tannic grape, one of the most tannic found anywhere, which presents a fine challenge. The winemakers must coax subtle notes of licorice, nutmeg, and plum out of the wafting, booming character that Sagrantino imparts to its juice.

The gem of this varietal is the aptly named, Sagrantino di Montefalco, a DOCG wine that must be made from 100 percent Sagrantino. There is also a more subtle, tamer version called Rosso di Montefalco (DOC). A blend of roughly 65-70 percent Sangiovese and about 10-15 percent Sagrantino, and possibly some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Colorino… this wine is very drinkable, but does not nearly possess the stout character of its big brother. A final delectable wine is made from the Sagrantino grape, the Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito (DOCG), made from grapes that have been partially dried. Very similar to a port, with huge dried fruit character, but without the fortification (most are below 16 percent), this concentrated juice is quite a treat.

2000 MILZIADE ANTANO, SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO

The seductive deep ruby color of this wine belies the massive nose, on which you will find a hearty plum component, some black pepper, nutmeg, and the faintest hint of anise.

Once this touches your palate the perception is instantly transformed. In a typical Barolo style, it comes at you full force, so decanting is definitely recommended. It is hugely tannic; completely enveloping my palate with acid; very hot, but cools with about an hour of decanting. Then you get to enjoy the anise, mint and finally some black cherry to complement the original plum notes. If you are a fan of the Super Tuscan style, you will be able to uncover a bit of cocoa on the finish. This wine has been well aged, though, so I suspect a younger variant may not be so complex due to the overwhelming nature of its acidity.

Overall, an exquisite representation of this rare varietal; aged and decanted perfectly, to bring out the best of its characteristics.