Pinot Grigio vs Pinot Gris



I am occasionally asked by my wine enthusiast friends, what my take is on the difference between Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio wines. Although subtle, there is a distinction in the different wines made from this grape.

Pinot Grigio is of course the Italian name for the equivalent Pinot Gris grape. It is also known as Pinot Beurot in Burgundy, Tokay d'Alsace in Alsace and Rulander in Germany. It gets its “grey” labeling because the grape clusters on the vine range in color from blue to pinkish grey. The same vine can contain clusters of different colors, actually, which is rather unique in itself. In a sort of reverse fashion, sweetness levels of this grape variety will tend to dissipate as the grapes ripen, instead of concentrate; evidenced in the typically dry and crisp characteristics of these wines. This species is well accepted to be a natural mutation of Pinot Noir, the unstable and finicky grape which also mutates to produce a Pinot Blanc/Bianco variety.

The main area for production of Pinot Grigio/Gris is the Fruili region of Italy. There are also sizeable vineyards in Alsace, France and in the U.S. (Oregon and California.) The Italian variety from Fruili has probably the most recognizable taste for the grape varietal, perhaps due to the attention given to the growing and long established vinifying processes. The typical flavor of the Pinot Grigio wine is delicate, fragrant and very frequently has a slight lemon note. The body of the wine is mostly light, spritzy and acidic, but some wine houses have experimented and pulled off some nice full bodied wines out of this grape in Italy. More subtly, the Italian wines will exhibit flavors of pears, melons and tropical fruits, much like a Sauvignon Blanc. By far the most famous Italian Pinot Grigio to make a name outside of Italy is from Santa Margherita Winery. A premium example of this varietal, it retails for about $25, and is constantly rated in the low to mid 90’s by almost all wine reviewers. It is a sublime white, with an intense nose, very dry palate and a pleasing golden apple finish. Most importantly, it is highly consistent from vintage to vintage... very admirable.

In Oregon, Pinot Gris was first planted in 1966, and experienced a very rapid rise to popularity. By the mid 1990’s, almost every major wine producer in Oregon was making a Pinot Gris. The style of the Oregon wine, like its French and German counterparts, is much more robust, floral and exotic when compared to the crisp and understated types made in Italy. They can be more velvety on the tongue, and certainly offer more layering of flavors, from lychee fruit, cantaloupe, grassy herbs and honeysuckle on the nose and palate… down to nutmeg, allspice and coriander heading toward a mineraly finish. The Oregon wines seem to be getting even better as new vintages are released. I credit the adventurous and trailblazing approach to winemaking in Oregon for the rapidity of this varietal’s rise to stardom in that state.


“A to Z” 2007 Oregon Pinot Gris (Oregon) ($14)

I was able to uncover this solid Oregon Pinot Gris and a very reasonable price point. This wine, at (13% alc.) was very clear, light straw color in the glass, wafting notes of pineapple, melon and honeysuckle on the nose. Those same fruits with a hint of honey predominated, followed by that nice bright and crisp acidity common to all of these wines.

This wine pairs well with a great variety of foods. I matched it with some roasted Cornish Game Hens, fingerling potatoes, and sautéed rapini . It held up nicely and complimented this meal quite well. It is demure enough to be enjoyed on its own as well. I'm sold on this Oregon Pinot Gris and tend to keep a few bottles on hand in my cellar.